In the obituaries for the great Australian racehorse trainer
Bart Cummings, who died at the weekend, much has been made of his dry sense of humour
and talent for one-liners. I recall one myself when I interviewed him
at the Trentham Yearling Sales, circa 1980. The price of thoroughbred horseflesh
had gone crazy; colts and fillies were fetching record prices. I asked the
great man about this and he was ready with a typically deadpan reply. “Yeah,” he said, “it’s
what they call galloping inflation.”
Monday, August 31, 2015
Saturday, August 29, 2015
Workplace safety debate reduced to farce
(First published in the Nelson Mail and Manawatu Standard, August 26.)
Opportunistic grandstanding on one side, incompetent
political management on the other. That was my take on last week’s furore over
workplace health and safety legislation.
It’s probably not necessary, but let’s revisit the
background to this stoush.
Twenty-nine miners died in the Pike River mine explosion in
2010. A subsequent Royal Commission exposed shocking deficiencies in the way
the mine was managed.
Warnings of dangerous methane levels went unheeded and there
was no second exit from the mine. Production took priority over safety and
monitoring by the Department of Labour was scandalously slack.
Following the commission’s damning report, the government
set up an independent taskforce to review workplace health and safety more
generally. It found that safety standards, monitoring and accountability were
lax across the board in New Zealand industry and recommended a comprehensive
rewrite of workplace health and safety laws.
As if to underline the message, in the year the taskforce
report came out (2013), 10 men died in forestry accidents.
Out of that came the Health and Safety Reform Bill. Everyone
supported the legislation – not just unions, but the government and business
groups too. Pike River seemed to have shocked all the players into a rare state
of accord.
But last month something unexpected happened. The National
Party, having previously given the impression of being fully committed to
workplace safety reform, watered down what the Labour Party and the unions saw
as a key provision.
Under the amended bill, businesses with fewer than 20
employees in industries deemed to be lower-risk were to be excluded from an
obligation to have elected health and safety representatives.
Why National had second thoughts isn’t entirely clear. Most political
commentators put it down to last-minute lobbying by farming interests, worried
that the new law would impose too great a burden.
Others said it was an act of defiance by stroppy National
backbenchers and pointed the finger at disaffected former Cabinet ministers
Judith Collins and Maurice Williamson.
The Left worked itself into a fine old lather, angrily
protesting that the change meant the new law would be worse than the one it
replaced.
You could understand why unions felt betrayed by the
government’s back-pedalling, but that was a wild overstatement.
Certainly the bill was weakened, especially when you
consider that 97 per cent of workplaces employ fewer than 20 people. But the
majority of those workplaces are not high-risk, so the outcry was a bit
theatrical. So was the carefully orchestrated presence at Parliament of widows
and families bereaved by workplace accidents.
It was only to be expected that the unions would extract
maximum leverage from the situation. After all, they don’t get many
opportunities these days to put runs on the board. But there were moments when I
felt those widows and families were too blatantly being used in pursuit of a political
agenda.
As Workplace Safety Minister Michael Woodhouse pointed out,
larger workplaces – which, although relatively few in number, employ 75 per
cent of the labour force – will still be subject to the requirement to have
elected health and safety representatives. And all the other provisions of the
legislation will still apply to smaller workplaces, so they’re not “off the
hook”, in the minister’s words.
It was on the question of risk that the workplace safety debate
descended to the level of farce. National’s support parties, sensing an
opportunity to assert themselves, refused to simply wave the amended bill
through. They wanted more certainty on which industries would be defined as
high-risk and therefore required to have elected health and safety
representatives, even in small workplaces.
The government appeared not to have anticipated that
complication and was forced into last-minute negotiations. In its haste, it
adopted existing, arbitrary classifications of risk that were riddled
with bizarre anomalies, much to the media’s delight.
That was how worm farms and mini-golf ended up being defined
as high-risk while livestock farming conveniently (from National’s perspective)
escaped the net. A smarter minister might have seen the potential for
embarrassment in advance and had a Plan B ready, but Woodhouse doesn’t give the
impression of being the sharpest knife in the drawer.
In the end, I don’t think anyone emerged from this imbroglio
with a lot of credit. The government not only appeared to have pandered to special
interests, but looked incompetent politically. A case of third term-itis,
perhaps.
For their part, opposition parties and the unions overplayed
their hand, accusing the government of putting profits before people and
failing to acknowledge that even in its slightly watered-down form, workers
should be much safer under the new regime than the old. And in all the fuss over the "watered-down" provision, no one explained how a system of elected health and safety representatives would work where farms are run by only one or two people, sometimes father and son or husband and wife.
Some of the news media deserve a slap too, for playing
heavily on the emotional scars of bereaved Pike River and forestry families
when the debate had moved on and their experiences, painful though they
undoubtedly were, were no longer
strictly relevant.
Labels:
Michael Woodhouse,
Pike River,
politics,
Unions,
workplace safety
Sunday, August 23, 2015
No one's forced to eat junk food
(First published in The Dominion Post, August 21.)
But I have to accept that my romantic view of Otago is hopelessly outdated. Because far from being a place associated with useful, functional things like stoves, houses and trousers, Otago has ironically become a name synonymous with the 21st century phenomenon of academic busybody-ism.
When I think of Otago, I’m inclined to think of it as a
place of solid, practical people – people like Henry Shacklock, who made
cast-iron coal ranges, the original Sir James Fletcher, founder of the
construction company that bears his name, and Bendix Hallenstein, a 19th
century businessman whose name lives on in a national menswear chain.
Dunedin today still has an aura of Presbyterian
sturdiness and self-reliance (although Hallenstein, of course, was Jewish). The Otago Daily Times
is the last of the traditional New Zealand daily newspapers, still family-owned,
still concentrating on what it does best – which is local news, delivered on
paper – and faring pretty well compared with digitally focused papers
elsewhere.But I have to accept that my romantic view of Otago is hopelessly outdated. Because far from being a place associated with useful, functional things like stoves, houses and trousers, Otago has ironically become a name synonymous with the 21st century phenomenon of academic busybody-ism.
Unlike the business enterprises of those early
entrepreneurs, this is not a field of activity intended to ease people’s lives or
make a raw young country more liveable.
On the contrary, it sets out to frighten and discomfort New
Zealanders with an almost constant campaign of shrill hectoring and haranguing.
Its only point in common with Dunedin’s Presbyterian founders is its unshakeable
moral sanctimony.
I refer specifically to Otago University’s once admired
medical school, which gives the public impression of having become a nest of
tiresome academics whose lecturing, sadly, isn’t directed only at their
students.
No doubt there are many in the university’s medical faculty
who continue to work quietly and inconspicuously with the noble aim of training
others to cure the sick, the lame and the mentally afflicted.
But the most publicly visible Otago University academics are
those on a self-appointed mission to save us all from our own folly – people
like professors Doug Sellman and Jennie Connor, neither of whom misses any
opportunity to whip up alarm over our alcohol consumption (which, by
international standards, is actually quite moderate).
The odd thing about their highly emotive rhetoric is that
most of the people at whom it’s directed have nothing wrong with them.
Most New Zealanders are sensible enough not to binge on
things that they know are bad for them if indulged in to excess, but the New
Puritans in the universities don’t trust ordinary people to make their own
decisions. They think the state – guided of course by learned experts – should
determine how we live.
Alcohol isn’t the only supposed scourge that gets these
moral crusaders fired up. Fatty foods, sugar and salt are all on the list of
addictions that we’re apparently powerless to resist.
Neither is Otago the only university that employs them. But it’s
unquestionably the go-to institution if you want to be badgered about your
eating and drinking habits. The Dunedin campus produces self-righteous finger-waggers
the way Ethiopia produces marathon runners.
A previously unfamiliar one popped up a few days ago on
Radio New Zealand. Dr Lisa Te Morenga of Otago’s Department of Human Nutrition
said an improvement in Maori health required a reduction in the socio-economic
gap between them and non-Maori. More specifically, she said the government needed to intervene more to help Maori make healthy food choices.
Introducing class politics into the health debate is nothing
new, but it was what she said next that particularly interested me. According
to Te Morenga, it’s difficult to make healthy choices when constrained by
poverty, "especially when there's a plethora of cheap, high-calorie food out there".
This is nonsense. It recycles the tired old mantra that
people are trapped into eating unhealthy food because it’s cheap; that they are at the mercy of slick marketing campaigns.
Plenty of nutritious food – potatoes, rice, pasta – is much cheaper
than the Big Macs and KFC that a lot of Maori people eat.
If some Maori don’t know how to cook healthy food, then let’s
address that. If people are miraculously
still unaware that fatty food causes obesity, heart disease and diabetes, then perhaps
we need to find a new way of reaching them through education campaigns.
But to suggest that people don’t eat the right food because
they can’t afford it strikes me as lazy and simplistic, although of course it
aligns with the prevailing ideology in academia.
It also absolves people of personal responsibility for their
choices. They can excuse their bad eating habits on the grounds that they are
the victims of heartless, manipulative capitalists.
I’m no apologist for the fast food industry. I curse it
every time I pick up discarded McDonald’s bags or KFC cartons in the street. But
no one is forced to eat burgers or deep-fried chicken, any more than they are
forced to smoke.
Labels:
Food,
Lisa Te Morenga,
Maori,
nutrition,
Otago University
Saturday, August 22, 2015
Thanks for the attention, guys
In my line of work you tend to cop quite a lot of personal
abuse – the more so since the Internet made it possible to make abusive
comments instantly, effortlessly and under the protection of anonymity.
Much of this abuse occurs at a subterranean level, on blogs
or Twitter streams that I might have no knowledge of. When I do become aware of
it, which is usually when someone tips me off, there’s always the question: do
I respond?
Mostly I don’t. Life is too short, and I have a living to
earn. I marvel at people whose names (or more often pseudonyms) crop up
constantly in the blogosphere or on Twitter. I can only assume they have
nothing to do, which may explain why they seem perpetually peevish.
In any case, I have to accept that criticism goes with the
territory. I dish it out, and I have to expect some back in return. As Harry Truman
said, “If you can’t stand the heat, get out of the kitchen”.
But every now and again, I come across something that seems
to call for a response. It happened today, when my attention was drawn to a
recent exchange on Twitter.
Someone called Dan (Why so timid, Dan? Tell us who you are)
tweeted: “Karl du Fresne looks like he wears his 2001 Alcatel cellular
telephone in a holster attached to his belt”.
To which New Zealand
Herald journalist Matt Nippert responded: “And no low-slung holster either.
That belt’s hitched high.”
Another Herald journalist,
Juha Saarinen, joined the fun: “Right below the moobies”.
At this point, anonymous Dan weighed in again: “Visible,
obviously, because his shirt is proper tucked in.”
Now if you were naïve, you’d laugh this off as a bit of
harmless fun. But of course it’s nothing
of the sort. It’s malice masquerading as humour.
I have no idea what prompted this particular exchange, but I’m
guessing these guys don’t much like what I write. So they resort to sneering
and ridicule. They create a caricature of me as a sad old dinosaur who’s been
left floundering helplessly in the wake of the digital revolution, wears his pants around his chest and doesn’t realise that it’s uncool to tuck his
shirt in.
I’ve been subjected to far more vicious online attacks, so
won’t lose any sleep over this one. But it’s worth commenting on for several
reasons.
The first is that it’s a classic ad hominem attack, mounted via
a medium perfectly suited to ad hominem attacks. Since Twitter imposes a limit
of 140 characters, participants are conveniently excused from developing a
coherent argument. Far easier to discredit someone by constructing a man of
straw (based on what? The mug shot on my column?) and then tearing it down. Job
done.
And let’s examine this crude caricature further. A newspaper
column, or even something as expansive as a blog, often reveals only a small
part of the writer and his or her private life (unless, of course, we’re
talking about Deborah Hill Cone). Columns often tell you nothing about who the
columnist’s friends are, what’s most important to them personally, what they
wear, the books they read, the films they watch or the music they listen to.
The Three Mouseketeers of the Twittersphere mentioned above
wouldn’t have a clue about the sort of person I am, but this doesn’t stop them
from making assumptions on which to base puerile personal attacks. (There’s
nothing new here. In the past I’ve been described as an ardent National Party
supporter and a devout Catholic, both comically wrong.)
My second point is that in these situations, people
typically hunt in packs. They post their comments in friendly forums where they
are confident of attracting support. They operate in the smug certainty that in the
groupthink of the echo-chamber, their Twitter followers or blog commenters can
be relied on to back them up.
In short, it’s the dynamics of the gang, where people seek reassurance
and security in numbers. Not everyone in a gang is necessarily gutless, but by
their very nature gangs attract cowards and curs.
My third and perhaps most important point is that if I really
were the pathetic figure these people make me out to be, they would ignore me. I wouldn’t be worth the time of day. So I regard
their attempted ridicule as a perverse compliment, and should probably thank
them for the attention.
Labels:
Internet,
Juha Saarinen,
Matt Nippert,
Twitter
Tuesday, August 18, 2015
New Zealand's forgotten fallen
Bob Davies, a former Sergeant-Major of the New Zealand Army (in other words, the army's top non-commissioned officer), delivered this speech on Sunday in Auckland to mark Vietnam Veterans' Day. I'm happy to reproduce it here.
After World War One, the Commonwealth
War Graves Commission was formed to establish an appropriate way to discharge
the debt of honour each country owed to its fallen. By the end of World War Two and the
Commonwealth War Graves Commission’s mandate, 1.7 million fallen were
commemorated in 23,000 cemeteries and memorials across 157 countries. Those who have had the privilege to visit any
of these sites cannot but be overawed, not just by the scale of the casualties
– for there is surely that - but by the overwhelming dignity and solemnity of
the environment that enfolds the earthly remains of those who sacrificed all so
that the rest of us may have a future.
While nothing can compensate for such sacrifice, at least their remains
are protected in perpetuity as they lie alongside their comrades in peace. They are our Glorious Dead.
Since New Zealand first sent troops
overseas in 1899 to assist the British Empire in its fight against the South
African Boers, we have lost 28,923 servicemen and women who were killed in
action, died of wounds or who died of a result of illness or accident due to
their operational service; service, I shouldn’t need to remind you, which was
in pursuit of the government of the day’s international priorities. It is very difficult to get one’s head
around such a statistic so let me help you.
If we laid each of the 28,923 fallen head-to-foot, beginning at the
Bombay BP Station on State Highway 1, they would extend to somewhere around the
Northcote off-ramp on the other side of the Harbour Bridge.
Almost, but not quite at the end of that
line, you’ll find 32 men; they are our forgotten fallen. These are men who were killed since World War
Two. They served in South East Asia, in
Malaya and in Vietnam. No longer under
the auspices of the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, some of these men lie in
obscure cemeteries, some in graves which are overgrown or in graves that are
very difficult to access. And because
they are not subject to the same rules as those who lie in a Commonwealth War
Grave, their resting places are not protected.
They lie there because their families could not afford to have their bodies returned to New Zealand. If you visit the National War Memorial at Pukeahu, the Army Memorial Museum in Waiouru, or the Auckland War Memorial Museum, their sacrifice is acknowledged alongside the rest of our fallen, except in their case their resting place is not so glorious. Their next of kin have grieved no less than any other of the families from other conflicts, but to these families their treatment demonstrates that the country considers theirs to be of a lesser sacrifice as, unlike their forefathers and their sons, successive governments have failed to discharge the debt of honour that the country owes to them.
They lie there because their families could not afford to have their bodies returned to New Zealand. If you visit the National War Memorial at Pukeahu, the Army Memorial Museum in Waiouru, or the Auckland War Memorial Museum, their sacrifice is acknowledged alongside the rest of our fallen, except in their case their resting place is not so glorious. Their next of kin have grieved no less than any other of the families from other conflicts, but to these families their treatment demonstrates that the country considers theirs to be of a lesser sacrifice as, unlike their forefathers and their sons, successive governments have failed to discharge the debt of honour that the country owes to them.
For some years now, there have been
efforts to have these men returned to New Zealand, but without success. The Minister of Veterans’ Affairs just in May
this year stated the Government had no intention to change its policy and
repatriate these forgotten fallen, this during the 100th
commemorative year and despite a Cabinet paper that concedes the unfairness of
their treatment. He also gave a further
reason: that historically soldiers were buried where they fell. Clearly he is misinformed as none of the
fallen lie in Vietnam – and more tellingly – nor do they lie in East Timor,
Iraq or in Afghanistan.
With an ironic and questionable sense of timing, the Prime Minister decided this was the year to run a campaign
to change the flag, the flag under which these men fell. Whether this is a good idea or not is not
only irrelevant but extraordinarily insensitive and thoughtless if most
returned servicemen, those we are supposedly commemorating this year and next,
object to it as the RSA informs us they do.
The 2007 Cabinet paper estimated the
cost of repatriation of the 32 forgotten fallen to be considerably
less than $500,000. That may have increased
somewhat in the years since but whatever its cost today, it will be miniscule
in comparison to the $24 million dedicated to changing the flag.
The Prime Minister has made much
recently of the importance of New Zealand contributing to ‘The Club’ when once
again the Government has placed our young men and women in harm's way to
demonstrate our solidarity with it. On
20 May this year our closest ally in ‘The Club’, Australia, announced in
Parliament it was repatriating Australian war dead from Malaysia. Can we expect the New Zealand Government to
again show solidarity by similarly repatriating our forgotten fallen? Apparently not.
Fellow Vietnam veterans join me today in
challenging this Government to return our forgotten fallen to the country for
which they have sacrificed all and before the flag is changed. Let the National Government, the Government
that sent us off to our war and that has ignored us since, now make amends.
Lest we forget.
Lest we forget.
Labels:
Defence,
New Zealand flag. Bob Davies,
politics,
war dead
Friday, August 14, 2015
Must TV cameras intrude on private grief?
(First published in the Nelson Mail and Manawatu Standard, August 12.)
When I joined the now-defunct
New Zealand Journalists’ Association in 1968 (union membership in those days
being compulsory), I automatically signed up to the journalists’ code of
ethics.
One of the rules in that code
was that journalists should accept no compulsion to intrude on private grief.
In other words if my boss asked me to seek an interview with a family that had
just lost someone in a car accident, I was entitled to say no, and the union
would back me.
The rule was generally
respected, although ambitious young journalists often accepted such assignments
nonetheless, knowing they were a source of good human-interest stories. I did
such “death-knocks”, as they were known, once or twice myself.
It was well-known that
bereaved people would often open up willingly to a reporter who turned up on
the doorstep. It was a chance to pay tribute to the person who had died and it seemed
to have a cathartic effect, as if it was the first step in the process of
grieving and confronting their loss.
The resulting stories were usually
handled sensitively. Complaints from families alleging that they had been
exploited or manipulated were rare.
Despite knowing all this, I
squirmed last week when One News
showed footage of the three Nepalese sisters who lost their parents and younger
brother in a fire in Waimate.
TV3 News, which I gave up
watching months ago after it gratuitously broadcast video of an ugly assault involving teenage girls in Northland, apparently screened similar footage.
The three sisters appeared to
be comforting each other in bed. The camera moved in very close and lingered
for an inexcusably long time on the weeping siblings.
The oldest sister tried to
speak but mumbled only a few words before breaking down. I shouted at the TV
set to leave them alone. My wife felt the same way but sensibly refrained from
shouting, realising it probably wouldn’t have much effect.
I often feel uncomfortable
watching people sharing their most intimate thoughts and experiences with
television interviewers. I want to say “Stop! You shouldn’t be revealing these
things to an audience of strangers.”
But I have to accept that
they appear to be speaking voluntarily and in full knowledge of what they’re
doing, even if the reasons escape me. When it comes to intrusions into privacy,
there’s no bright, clear line separating what’s ethical or acceptable from
what’s clearly beyond the pale.
Even the fuzziest line,
though, was crossed in the coverage of the grieving sisters from Waimate. The
camera made us all voyeurs in a moment of intense grief – and for what
purpose?
Did it tell us anything about
the tragedy that we weren’t able to deduce for ourselves? Or was it just a
cheap attempt to wallow in the emotion of the moment, as television loves to
do?
Not only would the sisters
have been emotionally vulnerable, but they were still relatively recent
immigrants from a culture not accustomed to the Western media’s way of doing
things.
That makes matters worse.
They wouldn’t have had PR advisers on hand to advise them how to deal with the
media.
That they agreed to the
interview is no justification for its screening, as was apparently argued by someone from TV3 on Twitter. The sisters may have thought
this was just how things are done in New Zealand. You suffer a tragic event and
you let the TV cameras in to record your sorrow.
What a shame no one told them
they didn’t have to do this; that they were entitled to mourn in private.
I’ve heard it suggested that
the sisters were persuaded not only to give the interview, but to make their
grief obvious because it would encourage people to donate to a fund set up for
them. But that’s a darkly cynical spin to put on events. I prefer to
think they assumed this was what’s expected of bereaved people in New Zealand.
Either way, TV news editors
should have had the discretion not to broadcast the footage, or
at least to keep it to a few seconds. But no, the sight of distraught people
struggling to come to terms with a personal tragedy was just too good to
resist.
It caused me to wonder, yet
again, why I bother to turn on the 6pm news when so much of it makes me cringe.
The answer, I suppose, is that we human beings are social animals who need to
know what’s happening in the world, even if we have to see it through the
distorting filters of the news bulletin.
One good thing came out of
this. On talkback radio that night there was an outpouring of disgust over the
item. Many callers said they had switched off. “Vultures” was one of the more
pithy epithets used.
Similar sentiments were
expressed on a New Zealand journalists’ Facebook page. When even some of the TV
journalists’ peers found the footage repugnant, and said so, perhaps there’s
some hope for us after all. Saturday, August 8, 2015
Has the food cult got out of hand?
(First published in The Dominion Post, August 7.)
As I write this, the salivary glands of Wellington foodies
will be working overtime in anticipation of the Wellington on a Plate festival.
But I’m strangely unexcited.
Don’t get me wrong. It’s not that I have no interest in eating.
Quite the contrary.
I love food and regard every meal as an adventure. I’m lucky
to have a wife who’s not only a terrific cook but who doesn’t seem to mind that
my first words to her most mornings are “What’s for breakfast?”
I have sometimes wondered whether my enthusiasm for eating is
a bit unnatural. Is it normal to recall, with vivid clarity, flavours from dishes
eaten decades ago? (The rahm schnitzel from Wellington’s long-vanished Mecca restaurant
lives in my memory.)
But I needn’t have worried. In terms of obsession with food,
I apparently trail well behind the pack – which brings me back to Wellington on
a Plate.
The festival programme arrived with my Dominion Post several weeks ago. It runs to 70 pages.
On page 11 I read that you can experience something called
the D’Luxburger in the Lobby Lounge of the Intercontinental Hotel. “This
gastronomic extravagance,” the blurb reads, “includes a collection of sumptuous
ingredients – Ngawi-sourced crayfish and black truffle mayonnaise; groper and caviar;
slow-poached Wellington South Coast paua.
“This SeaSational burger trilogy is accompanied by a
gold-flaked vodka martini, Krug Champagne and Martinborough Dry River Pinot
Gris.”
The price: $350 per head. For this sum you apparently also
receive “a glittering crystal gift”.
I wonder, is this really about the pleasure of food, or is
it about acquiring social status points that can then be boasted about with
one’s wealthy friends?
Admittedly, the D’Luxburger is at the extreme end of the
scale. But flicking through the rest of the Wellington on a Plate programme, I
can’t help but get the uncomfortable feeling that food has been elevated to the level of a fetish.
The same page invites diners to sample five different cuts
of a cow at Dragonfly restaurant. The hook is that you do so blindfolded.
This striving for novelty strikes me as the culinary
equivalent of “jumping the shark” – in other words, reaching the point where
the simple enjoyment of good food is in danger of being overtaken by
gimmickry.
Heston Blumenthal can be blamed for much of this. He’s the
English chef who built a cult out of dishes such as egg-and-bacon ice cream.
Blumenthal seems an amiable enough character, but his food is described in terms that go beyond mere
pretentiousness. According to an article I read recently, his menus are not
just about taste but about “the ebb and flow of stories: contextual theatrical
narrative-driven dishes that have layers and layers and layers”.
Perhaps Blumenthal is having an elaborate joke at our expense,
but the tragedy is that there’s no shortage of affluent consumers hungry for
anything that smacks of novelty. If it’s expensive, so much the better - it must
be good.
Meanwhile a peculiar faddism seems to have overcome chefs
and foodies, such as the sudden romantic enthusiasm for “foraging”. Evidently
food is much more authentic if it has been harvested from the roadside.
One festival event invites people to forage with the chef from
the exclusive Wharekauhau Lodge, then return to the lodge for a five-course,
wine-matched lunch using the ingredients gathered. That will set punters back a
modest $247.
Among other fads I’ve noted, fish nowadays must be
line-caught and chips must be hand-cut. Even the humble oat must be steel-cut. Such
practices apparently endow even everyday foodstuffs with a powerful mystique.
And of course you must be able to trace the exact provenance
of everything you eat, right to the very paddocks where the ewe that supplied
your lamb shank grazed contentedly on alfalfa and white clover seasoned by
salt-laden winds off Palliser Bay. If you can shake the hand of the farmer, so
much the better.
I applaud the range and quality of food now available in New
Zealand restaurants and cafes. I bow to our farmers and growers and clever
chefs.
But Wellington on a Plate takes the celebration of food to a
level where even I have to ask: has it all gone a bit far? The food business
strikes me as being in danger of becoming almost as much of a pretentious con
as the fashion industry.
Suffice it to say that I won’t be lining up for a D’Luxburger.
I do, however, like the look of the Kapiti Coast Festival of Fish and Chips.
That sounds like me.
Labels:
Food,
Heston Blumenthal,
restaurants,
Wellington on a Plate
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