A typical scene on the Timber Trail. (Photo: Barnaby Maass)If you look up the acronym oobs, you’ll see that it stands
for out-of-band signalling, a term likely to be familiar only to technology
geeks.
I use it to refer to something quite different. Oobs is my
abbreviation for oldies on bikes – a rapidly proliferating demographic cohort
of affluent superannuitants who have discovered, or rediscovered, the joys of
cycling.
I often see groups of oobs riding past my place on the
outskirts of Masterton in their high-vis jackets. Many of them have seized on
battery-powered bikes as an incentive to get back on a bike for the first time
in decades – and who can blame them? It’s healthy, pleasurable and virtuous,
enabling people to enjoy the scenery and fresh air without burning fossil fuels
or raising a sweat.
Though I say battery-powered, you still have to pedal, but
the battery does much of the work. The harder you pedal, the more the battery
supplements your efforts.
The best systems flatten hills – or so I’m told. I’ve never
ridden an ebike myself, but I have two friends who bought an expensive
battery-powered French tandem several years ago and have covered much of the
country on it. It’s very heavy, but the batteries (they carry two) enable them
to cover vast distances at surprising speed and in relative comfort.
I encountered the oobs phenomenon close-up last week when my
grandsons and I rode the 85 km Timber Trail, a mountain-bike route through Pureora Forest in the central North Island.
In the course of the two-day ride I became accustomed to
being overtaken by grey-haired riders on ebikes, sitting in a quaintly upright posture (they put me in mind of Miss Gulch in The Wizard of Oz) and pedalling as sedately as if they were on a Sunday morning excursion on
Oriental Parade. All I heard was the gentle whirring of electric motors as they
passed.
There were dozens of riders on the trail and in terms of age
they were a wide mix, from teenagers (my grandsons) to at least one
octogenarian. A variety of accents testified to the fact that many were from
overseas, although there were plenty of New Zealanders doing the ride too.
We arrived at our overnight accommodation at the Timber
Trail Lodge, the halfway mark on the trail, to see a couple of dozen bikes
hooked up to chargers. We were the only guests not riding ebikes, though we had
seen plenty of riders – mostly younger ones – who were doing it the
old-fashioned way, like us.
We shared our dinner table that night with a middle-aged
couple from Colorado and the 80-year-old from Dunedin. We didn’t see any young
riders at the lodge, so they must have overnighted elsewhere. There are several
accommodation options on the trail, including campsites, although none of the
younger riders we saw were carrying camping gear. Presumably it had been
dropped off for them by a shuttle service.
The Timber Trail (I bridle against that American word “trail”,
but have to accept it’s now in common usage) is part of a comprehensive and
rapidly proliferating network of bike trails that have been developed around
the country in response to the booming popularity of multi-day recreational
cycling. The best-known remains the Central Otago Rail Trail.
A sophisticated support infrastructure has developed around
these trails, providing transport, accommodation and bike hire. Timber Trail
Shuttles took us from their base at Ongarue, north of Taumarunui, to the start
of the trail at Pureora and then dropped our overnight bags at the lodge, which
is one of the few points on the trail accessible by road. The next
morning the shuttle picked up our bags again and took them to the finish.
At the Timber Trail Lodge we were provided with very comfortable
accommodation, hot showers and an excellent dinner. The young staff are
friendly and helpful and there’s a licensed bar and a roomy lounge with an open
fire and a spacious deck overlooking the bush. They even sent us off the next
morning with a tasty packed lunch. To someone whose previous experience of multi-day
MTB rides mostly involved carting all my own gear and pitching a tent at the
end of the day, this was sheer luxury.
The trail itself is superb. Pureora Forest is a magnificent
stand of largely unspoiled native bush that stretches almost all the way to
Lake Taupo from northeast of Taumarunui. It first sprang into public
consciousness in the 1970s, when environmentalists protesting against logging proposals camped on platforms in the treetops. The Muldoon government sensibly responded
by giving the forest protected status.
Mountain bike trails are rated from one (easy) to six
(extreme). The Timber Trail is classified as 2-3, but that doesn’t mean it’s a
pushover. The track is wide and relatively smooth for much of the way and doesn’t
require technical riding skill, but the first part involves a steady and at
times steep climb to the highest point (971 metres) on the flanks of Mt
Pureora. You need to be reasonably fit, although battery assistance doubtless
helps.
You also need to be reasonably well prepared. You wouldn’t want
a mechanical failure, a serious accident or a medical misadventure, because it’s
a remote area and cellphone access is almost non-existent. Shuttle operators recommend personal locator
beacons in case of emergency and have them available for hire at a reasonable
cost.
Day two is relatively cruisy, being almost all downhill and
mainly following the routes of bush tramways that were built to haul logs out. For
riders unsure of their fitness, the 40km ride from the midway point at Piropiro
to the finish would be a great introduction to the trail, although they would
miss seeing the most spectacular, untouched tracts of forest.
Apart from the bush itself, highlights include several impressive
suspension bridges, three of them more than 100 metres long, spanning deep gorges.
There are numerous stopping points with views of bush-clad hills appearing to
stretch into infinity and in one spot, a glimpse through the haze of distant
Lake Taupo.
One of several impressive suspension bridges. (Photo: Gabriel Maass)
On the latter part of the trail, as you get closer to civilisation,
points of interest change from natural and purely scenic as evidence of human
intervention, such as remnants of old logging settlements and milling activity,
becomes more conspicuous. DOC has made a
good job of providing information panels.
DOC has also made sure the trail is well-marked, and here’s
a tip: if you don’t see the distinctive trail symbol every few minutes, you’ve
probably taken a wrong turning. We did, and wasted a frustrating 40 minutes getting
back on course. (My fault for making an assumption that a subsidiary track
would take us back to the main one. It didn’t.)
Pureora is noted for its native bird life, but we saw and
heard disappointingly few birds. Kaka could be heard in the treetops at the
start of the ride but after that, the bush was mostly silent. I was hoping to
see or hear karearea (the native falcon), kokako or whio, but no such luck.
One last thought. In 2014 I rode the Heaphy Track and
concluded at the finish that as good as it was, you needed to walk it to appreciate
it fully. I felt much the same about the Timber Trail (which is part of the Te
Araroa Trail from North Cape to Bluff, so you can expect to see walkers as well
as cyclists). On a bike, you’re focused for much of the time on riding. I
couldn’t help thinking that the Timber Trail invites the more immersive, contemplative
experience that only walking can truly provide.
You can read about the Timber Trail here.
Footnote: In case
anyone gets the wrong idea, this trip was not what journalists call a freebie. My grandsons and I paid our
own way.