I spent a couple of hours wandering the streets of downtown
Wellington this week. What a dismal experience.
Actually, it was worse than dismal. It was profoundly
depressing. The city where I spent most of my working life looks as if it has
lost the will to live.
John Key got into a lot of trouble in 2013 for saying
Wellington was a dying city. It seemed a preposterous statement then, but if
Key said it today, I could only agree.
Absolutely Positively Wellington? That was the city’s confident
– you might say brash – slogan in the 1990s. Now it sounds like a black joke.
Ditto the phrase “Coolest little capital in the world”, which is how Lonely Planet (not an authoritative
guide, even at the best of times) dubbed the city in 2014.
I’ve banged on about this before, here and here, so I won’t
repeat myself. Suffice it to say that downtown Wellington resembles the urban
wastelands of North American cities where you venture at your peril.
Lambton Quay on Tuesday was like a ghost town, Willis St
only marginally better. Cuba Street, which once had an appealing raffishness,
now looks just plain grotty. The CBD as a whole looks and feels tired and
moribund.
Everywhere you look, businesses are closed or empty – a
state of affairs documented in last Saturday’s Dominion Post. Beggars are ubiquitous, sometimes obtrusively so, and
Cuba Mall is owned by derelicts.
Of course the city’s decline can partly be blamed on
Covid-19, but the key word here is “partly”.
Many of the public servants and suits who normally patronise the
city’s cafes and shops are working from home, and more worryingly may continue
to do so even after the pandemic eases. The streets are also largely free of
tourists – an absence for which Wellington should probably be grateful, since it would
do the city’s image no good if word got out that downtown Wellington resembles
the less salubrious parts of Flint, Michigan.
But Covid-19 has merely accelerated a decline that was
already well advanced. For years the city has been in the grip of scaremongers
and control freaks who used the hypothetical risk of earthquakes as an excuse to
declare supposedly dangerous buildings off-limits. Risk-averse engineers, perhaps
intoxicated by the power the Christchurch and Kaikoura earthquakes unexpectedly
bestowed on them, keep raising the bar. Compliant bureaucrats fall into line.
The Reading cinema complex, which once generated a needed daytime
buzz in Courtenay Place, remains closed. The public library and town hall, ditto. Oh, and the St James Theatre too. And now I see that the Michael Fowler Centre, which has already been strengthened once, is getting another
earthquake-prone sticker “because more documentation is required to verify the
building’s seismic status”. The wording says it all.
These are institutions that collectively help define the
city’s identity. As long as they remain closed, Wellington will remain in a
state of inertia, if not paralysis. By the time the buildings reopen, it may be
too late.
Even the Asteron Centre, an architectural showpiece opened
as recently as 2010 and presumably built to state-of-the-art standards, was
hurriedly evacuated last year for fear of imminent collapse. Yet the Railway
Station immediately opposite, built on reclaimed land in the 1930s, has
remained opened for business throughout. Can anyone explain this apparent
paradox?
What’s astonishing is that this wretched state of affairs
seems to be stoically accepted as inevitable. Perhaps the fact that the city’s
decline has been gradual over many years resulted in the people living in its
midst not noticing. The frog-in-boiling-water analogy comes to mind. Alternatively,
the citizens of Wellington may have been browbeaten into submission and become
simply too demoralised to resist.
All of this brings us to the matter of the city’s
leadership, or lack thereof. From 1992 till 2010, Wellington had a succession
of mayors – Fran Wilde, Mark Blumsky and Kerry Prendergast – who were
energetic, capable and ambitious for their city. That was the Absolutely
Positively era.
The rot set in under Celia Wade-Brown and since then, things
have gone from bad to worse. Wellington in 2022 is cursed with the worst possible
combination: a weak, ineffectual mayor and a council of fractious activists, several of whom treat their office as a licence to pursue ideological agendas.
So while the city’s infrastructure crumbles and its social
and commercial vitality inexorably wastes away, the council sprays money on pet
causes such as cycleways (cost: $334
million) and virtue-signalling gestures on climate change – to say nothing of
the comically misnamed Let’s Get Wellington Moving, which has become a synonym for
expensive and futile dithering.
A striking example of the council’s resources being hijacked
in pursuit of a radical political agenda – one not remotely connected with the
concerns of ratepayers – is the proposed three-day wananga (forum) entitled
Imagining Decolonisation, paid for by the council and promoted by councillor
Tamatha Paul.
Official Information Act requests reveal that this “call to
action” – the organisers’ own phrase – will cost Wellington ratepayers $35,000,
including $6000 for something called cultural consultancy services. (That rumbling
you just heard was the gravy train passing by.)
The quoted cost of the event should be treated as a starting
figure because it doesn’t include time spent by council officials. But how the
ratepayers will benefit from discussions about what “an equitable future in a
decolonised Aotearoa could look like” isn’t clear.
Councillors who had the audacity to ask why the council was
paying for an event that Cr Sean Rush described as radical and subversive were
brushed off with bland assurances that different opinions could be voiced
safely at the wananga and “held with care”, whatever that may mean. But it’s a
fair bet that dissenting voices would have been firmly excluded had councillors Rush and Nicola Young not started asking awkward questions. That was obvious from
a council official’s acknowledgement that the postponement of the event due to
Covid-19 would enable “wider participation”.
Whether the event will go ahead now that its true nature has
been exposed (no thanks to the mainstream media, which have obligingly ignored
the controversy) remains to be seen. In the meantime, there are important
questions to be asked – such as, can Wellington rediscover and reclaim its mojo?
It will have an opportunity to at least make a start at the
local government elections in October. What the people of Wellington must do is
elect a mayor and council who reflect the priorities and aspirations of the
city at large rather than those of a vociferous minority.
That won’t be easy, because Wellington is home to New
Zealand’s greatest concentration of woke zealots. They are well organised, ferociously
committed and have the support of a broadly sympathetic media, many of whose
journalists are of a similar ideological persuasion.
The Left has made an early start. Tory Whanau declared
herself a candidate for the mayoralty in November and has been energetically
promoting herself at every opportunity. Whanau has no local government
experience, but the fact that she’s a former chief of staff for the Green Party
provides a clear pointer to the type of mayor she would be. It will also ensure
the support of the impressionable young and the idealistic New Left from the inner suburbs.
She certainly doesn’t lack self-assurance, judging by a
lavish photo spread in Capital
magazine (what was that I said about sympathetic media?). But Whanau as mayor
would be a disaster – a guarantee that the city would continue on its present
wayward course, albeit even faster.
The question is, who will stand against her? Speculation
centres on former deputy mayor Paul Eagle, now the Labour MP for Rongotai. Eagle was generally well-regarded on the
council and would have almost certainly been mayor by now had he not been
seduced by the lure of Parliament in 2017. But he hasn’t enjoyed a high profile
as an MP and might well be tempted to return to local government.
If he does, and stands as an official Labour candidate, he
would presumably have the backing of the Labour Party machine, which would help
counter the inevitable social media blitz promoting Whanau. And while party
involvement in local government is not something to be encouraged, Eagle as
mayor could at least be expected to counter the malignant elements who now hold
sway around the council table.
Whoever wins the mayoralty will need to be bold, decisive
and visionary, because Wellington is a city that has tragically lost its way.
Whether it can get its bearings again is in the hands of the voters.