(First published in Stuff regional papers and on Stuff.co.nz., December 26.)
A friend and I were discussing our travel experiences. I’m
reasonably well-travelled, he a lot more so.
He’s one of those adventurous New Zealanders who ends up in
odd places. There’s no spot on the planet so remote that you won’t hear someone
speaking with a New Zulland accent.
In my friend’s case, working on offshore oil rigs took him
to places most people probably didn’t realise existed. I, on the other hand,
have mainly confined myself to mainstream destinations. I don’t like to venture
too far out of my comfort zone.
The most offbeat place I can boast of visiting is a country
that doesn’t officially exist: the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. It was created after Turkish forces invaded
the northern part of Cyprus in 1974 to protect the minority Turkish population
from what Turkey feared was an imminent takeover by Greek nationalists.
The island was split in two, with a United Nations buffer
zone, the Green Line, separating the Turkish sector from the “official”, overwhelmingly Greek Cyprus
in the southern part of the island. But the TRNC is effectively a subsidiary
state of Turkey and was never recognised by any other country.
The UN considers it to be part of the official Cyprus and
deals with a long-standing diplomatic impasse by enforcing sanctions and
policing the Green Line but otherwise behaving essentially as if the TRNC
simply doesn’t exist.
All this has given the country a slightly surreal,
anachronistic ambience. When I was there 20 years ago, the faded waterfront
hotels and 1960s-era British cars made it feel a bit like a Mediterranean
version of Cuba.
But I digress. My well-travelled friend and I were talking
about national stereotypes, which was the subject of a previous column of mine
in which I had criticised the commonly held view of Americans as loud, brash and
unsubtle.
I thought this stereotype was inaccurate and unfair, but my
friend challenged me on this point. He reckoned it accurately described many of
the Americans he had encountered in New Zealand.
This led me to expound on Du Fresne’s Law of Unattractive
National Traits, which I formulated after exhaustive international study. This
law states that the worst characteristics of any nationality tend to become
much more pronounced when they’re on foreign ground.
American loudness, Australian crassness, Kiwi gaucheness,
the English tendency to complain – all are greatly magnified when they’re away
from home. Or perhaps they just become a lot more noticeable.
I’ll always remember sailing into Milford Sound long ago on
a cruise ship whose passengers were mostly Australian. A spectacular storm was
raging. Great torrents of water cascaded down from sheer cliffs and were
dispersed in clouds of spume by violent, swirling winds before they could reach
the bottom.
I and a few others went out on deck to enjoy this elemental
thrill, but where were most of the Australians? Inside, playing pokie machines.
There’s a negative national stereotype, right there. They
might as well have been in the Manly RSL.
The English at home are mostly likeable people, but there’s
a certain type of Englishman abroad who
seems determined to live up to the worst stereotypes – for example, by refusing
to make even a token attempt to communicate in the local language. If he can’t
make himself understood, his solution is to speak more loudly – in English.
We New Zealanders are not exempt from du Fresne’s Law.
Observe a group of New Zealand tourists in a foreign place and you can’t help
but notice that we sometimes look a bit awkward, unsophisticated and
provincial: jovial and good-hearted, but a bit wide-eyed and unworldly in our
jandals and shorts.
We also tend to be clannish when abroad, clustering together
for mutual support and reassurance.
My well-travelled friend was impressed with my theory but
then presented me with his own First Law of International Travel. This was that
women from other countries are always more appealing than the men.
Of course you’d expect a heterosexual male to say that, but
what he meant was that the good looks of foreign women are rarely matched by
their menfolk. He gave the example of some young Germans he once socialised
with in the Greek Islands: the women sexy, witty and charming, the men - in his words - fat,
loud and boorish.
“Almost like two different races,” my friend said. “Since then I’ve
tested it in many other countries and it works every time, to a greater or
lesser degree.”
I pondered this and had to concede that he might be right. I
immediately thought of Poland, where the women are tall, well-groomed and
elegant and the men are anything but.
Does my mate's First Law also hold true in New Zealand? That's something on which I'm not prepared to speculate.