A long time ago, I worked alongside a reporter named Leslie
Walters.
Les got into journalism after a stint in the army. He was a
likeable character with an idiosyncratic view of the world.
It soon became apparent that Les wasn’t exactly suited to
the role of hack reporter, writing formulaic news stories about car accidents
and council meetings.
His career might have gone nowhere had it not been for the
late Frank Haden, editor of what was then the Sunday Times. Frank appreciated Les’s offbeat sense of humour and
had the good sense to give him some stylistic freedom.
The result was a mad, anarchic weekly feature that combined
elements of Monty Python, Spike Milligan and Private Eye. Les seemed to inhabit a parallel universe. It wasn’t
journalism, but it was funny and original and it attracted something of a cult
following.
Perhaps inevitably, it also attracted the attention of a
recruiter from an advertising agency, which brings me to the point of this
column.
It was in advertising that Les found his niche. And if his
name means nothing to most New Zealanders, those of a certain age will
certainly remember the slogan he was credited with creating for the tourism
industry in the 1980s. “Don’t leave town till you’ve seen the country” was
aimed at encouraging people to experience New Zealand rather than book plane tickets
to foreign destinations.
It’s a phrase that has insinuated itself into the national
consciousness, rather like “The drink you have when you’re not having a drink”,
which came from roughly the same era and is remembered long after the brand it
advertised (Claytons) vanished.
I thought about Les’s slogan while on a recent caravan trip
with my wife around the top half of the South Island. His advice remains as
true now as it was three decades ago.
At Ashley Gorge in North Canterbury, we had one of the
country’s most exquisite camping grounds to ourselves (although to be fair, it
was fully booked the following weekend, which was Canterbury’s Anniversary
Weekend).
At remote Lake Coleridge, we marvelled at the grit of the
engineers and workers who created one of the country’s earliest hydro-electric
power stations in a beautiful but inhospitable landscape. My father, who was an engineer with the State Hydro-Electric Department, would have been fascinated.
On the return drive, the view over the vast, braided bed of
the Rakaia River against its mountain backdrop almost literally stopped us in our tracks. You can see why the
Canterbury high country captivated artists like Rita Angus and Bill Sutton.
We drove through charming little North Canterbury towns with
Tolkienesque names like Windwhistle and Glentunnel, the latter with its
fabulously eccentric gazebo-shaped brick post office (still in use).
On the road across Arthur’s Pass, we played vehicular
leap-frog with rental camper vans that were constantly pulling off to the side
of the highway so their goggle-eyed occupants could take pictures.
We roamed in the chilly, swirling mists at the top of the Denniston
Incline, where a hardy community of 1400 people once eked a living from coal.
It’s an extraordinary place that all New Zealanders should make the effort to
visit.
Quirky takeaway fact: it was said that the local football
team had an advantage against visiting sides because the Denniston players were
able to locate the ball by ear in the thick fog. They were also known to take
advantage of the poor visibility by sneaking extra players onto the field.
At Runanga, we admired the famous old miners’ hall (c. 1908) with its
faded socialist slogan “The World’s Wealth for the World’s Workers”. It remains
true that more than any other part of New Zealand, the Coast has a culture all
its own.
We did some of the standard touristy things: Punakaiki,
Farewell Spit, the celebrated Mussel Inn in Golden Bay (greatly over-rated, if
you ask me, with a menu that wouldn’t require much more culinary skill than
KFC).
But here’s the thing: Almost everywhere we went, our fellow
travellers were from overseas. At lonely Lake Coleridge, at the end of a rough
and dusty road that would deter a lot of drivers, we met an adventurous
Scandinavian woman touring alone on a motorbike.
In a camping ground at Greymouth, we shared the kitchen with
a big group of Israelis. At Denniston, we shared the mist with tourists from
Australia.
On the long, winding road to French Pass, surely one of New
Zealand’s most spectacular drives, most of the vehicles we passed were rentals
of the type that overseas visitors hire. I was impressed to see an intrepid
Asian woman tackling the route alone.
Not for the first time, I marvelled at the number of foreign
tourists who find their way to beautiful, out-of-the-way places that most New
Zealanders never see. Outsiders seem to appreciate our country in a way that
not all New Zealanders do.
Okay, it wasn’t the holiday season, so we probably weren’t
seeing a typical sample. Still, I couldn’t help thinking of Les Walters and his
advertising slogan.