(First published in The Dominion Post and on Stuff.co.nz., February 21.)
If the recent Nelson fires hadn’t caused such massive
disruption and economic pain, they would have been a public relations
master-stroke.
Think about it. What other part of New Zealand is endowed
with such evocative place names as Teapot Valley, Appleby and Pigeon Valley?
Thanks to the fires, the world now knows of these magical-sounding locations.
And that’s just the start. People familiar with the region - as I am, having lived there for four happy years in the 1980s - could rattle off plenty of other charming Nelson place names: Orinoco,
Dovedale, Foxhill, Ruby Bay and Spring Grove, for example.
Or how about Aniseed Valley, Woodstock, Dun Mountain,
Brightwater, Fringe Hill, Neudorf, Golden Downs and Haulashore Island?
Tolkien himself could hardly have done better. Who wouldn’t
want to check out such localities for themselves and see first-hand the
qualities that inspired the early European settlers to take poetic flight?
Nelson stands in stark contrast to the utilitarian place
names otherwise bequeathed to us by our stolid, unimaginative forebears. Northland, Southland and Westland speak of a colonial
society that valued dull functionality over euphony. But study a map of the
Nelson region, and you could swear someone flitted across the landscape in the
19th century scattering pretty names like fairy dust.
And the marvel is that many Nelson localities live up to the
scenic promise of their names, as TV viewers would have appreciated during the
Tasman fires as they saw journalists reporting against an idyllic backdrop of
gentle, wooded hills.
It wouldn’t surprise me, then, if one incongruous
consequence of the Tasman fires is an increase in tourism – because once the
last embers are extinguished, New Zealanders who have never previously thought
to visit Nelson might well be motivated to remedy that deficit. And so they should, because it’s a matter of shame that
Nelson seems to attract more visitors from overseas than from our own country.
Those who make the trip will discover that Nelson has a
slightly other-worldly quality which has long attracted people seeking an
escape from the rat race. I had uncles who moved there in the post-war years
for exactly that reason.
This appeal can probably be attributed, at least in part, to
Nelson’s isolation. From every direction, you have to cross physical barriers
to get there. And as with Gisborne, another charming city that’s hard to reach,
you don’t pass through Nelson to get anywhere else. You go there for its own
sake or not at all.
All this gives it a distinctive character that was even more
noticeable when I worked for what was then the Nelson Evening Mail. I likened life in Nelson then to
living in a warm bath. It was comfortable, soothing and not too challenging –
an impression reinforced by the benign climate.
Inevitably, all this bred a certain insularity – you might
even say smugness – on the part of Nelsonians. It was possible to live in
Nelson and be largely unaware that the rest of the world existed.
All provincial papers subsisted on local news, but the Evening Mail more than most. If it
didn’t happen in Nelson (sporting events excepted), it didn’t happen.
Minor local issues excited far greater passion than anything
on the national stage. So unworldly was Nelson that when Pizza Hut proposed to
open a local outlet, there were restive stirrings from citizens fearing … well,
I’m not sure what. It was just that an American-owned pizza chain was outside
Nelson’s realm of experience, and therefore something to be viewed with deep
suspicion.
In many ways Nelson then was still like a large country
town. Despite its reputation as a haven for hippies, stoners and alternative
lifestylers, at heart it was representative of the conservative New Zealand
provincial rump.
It’s very different now. By comparison with the 1980s,
Nelson today is cosmopolitan and sophisticated. Its population has almost
doubled since the 1970s, with consequential effects on house prices, and people complain about the traffic.
But back to those place names. In Nelson, even some of the
suburbs have charming names: The Wood, The Brook, Annesbrook and Enner Glynn.
And what other city has a downtown carpark called Millers Acre, which sounds
like something out of A A Milne?
Even where the European settlers adopted Maori place names –
such as Mahana, which means warmth – they chose ones which conveyed a sense of
pleasantness and wellbeing.
The origins of some Nelson place names appear lost to
history. Peter Dowling’s book Place Names
of New Zealand isn’t able to explain, for example, why someone named a
settlement in the Motueka Valley after a South American river. But hey, who
wouldn’t want to live in a place called Orinoco?
Oh, and did I mention Rainy River, the Shaggery (it’s not
what you think), Oyster Island, Teal Valley, Delaware Bay and The Glen?